While the tiles should be seen as the first line of defense against leaking in the home, the roof underlayment is an important secondary barrier.
Tile roof underlayment comes in several different forms. A very popular option for many roofers is pound felt paper, which is budget-friendly and ideal for most uses. Non-bitumen synthetic underlayment is another popular option for some roofers because of its strength. Rubberized asphalt underlayment is more expensive than the other two options but may offer better waterproofing benefits. It protects your roof from water should a tile break in a storm or if heavy winds expose nail holes.
Because tiles are not sealed at all corners when they are laid and can become brittle and crack over time, this is an important additional moisture barrier that your home needs. You should have reinforced the frame of the roof earlier before stripping any existing roof off. That said, the sheathing--the layer of wood or other material that covers the area between the relatively open frame and the outer layers of roofing--may be damaged or weak.
Strengthen it. Again, think about the weight involved. The fairly cheap and common shingle roofs that many people have are quite light; if you are transitioning from a light roof to a tile roof, the weight difference will be substantial. For a relatively average house with a 1, square foot roof, the total of underlayment and tiles will equal something approaching 8 tons in weight. That's more than the equivalent of having two large SUVs parked on top of your house.
Install the underlayment. As you roll out the underlay, keep the bottom edge of the material aligned with the edge of the eave but above any metal or synthetic edging that may cover the borders of the eave.
Secure the underlayment. Roll out 10 foot 3 m -long sections at a time, and then secure it with nails separated by intervals of 24 inches. Keep all nails at least 2 inches from the edge of the roof. When you reach the end of the roof, cut the underlayment roll to match the edge. Secure the end with nails. Restart at the end of the roof at which you first began. Overlap the underlayment, with the new layer partially covering that which was already applied.
There may be a series of lines along the roll of underlayment, and this is intended to show the installer precisely how much the layers should overlap. Treat the top line on the installed layer as you previously had the bottom edge of the eave.
Work around obstacles. Objects such as chimneys that project out from the roof will have to be sealed up as well. Metal flashing should be used around the chimney, and these should be sealed using caulk or other sealants specifically designed for outdoor use. Underlayment should be cut to fit around these obstacles, and then an additional layer of material spare slices of the underlayment material, for example should be placed over the areas where the flashing and underlayment meet and secured in place.
Part 3. Install battens if applicable. If the roof has a steep slope, battens may be required to hold the tiles in place. Battens are thin strips of material usually wood, but sometimes metal or plastic, and commonly 1 inch thick and 2 inches wide that run horizontally along the length of the roof. Many tile varieties possess a lip or hook that will hang on available battens. Obviously this is one more thing to consider when identifying the tile that fits your needs In addition, clips are available to attach the tiles onto the batten.
Use two tiles to determine the spacing required for the battens. A minimum of a 3 inch overlap is required for the tiles that do not interlock interlocking tiles will take care of the measurement for you , and a smaller amount of overhang should be left over the eaves. Factor this in as you determine the locations of the battens. After you have determined the distance between the first two battens, measure the distance and set battens using that spacing all the way up, making sure to double check measurements as you go along.
Install the tiles. Start with one side first, and then move along the length of the roof. If you have not installed battens, you can nail the tiles directly into the sheathing. If you have installed battens first, you will nail the tiles into the battens. You can also use clips to anchor the tiles to the battens. If your are using tiles that tightly interlock, it may not be necessary to nail all the tiles to the sheathing or battens; read the instructions that come with the tiles closely for details.
Cut tiles to fit tight spots. Obstacles like the chimney will get in the way, and tiles will have to be cut to fit tightly around these areas.
Additionally, tiles at the end of each row will almost certainly have to be cut. Install the ridge tiles. After you have completed the "fields"--that is, the broad surfaces of the roof--you will need to cap the tops with special ridge tiles. These are rounded, and depending upon design can either be laid out end-to-end or in an overlapping style. This should be the final step in the process of installation. Congratulations are due for your successful assembly of a new tile roof!
No, except in very specific areas - at a ridge at the top to stop windblown rain from entering, meeting points to different roof pitches or transition areas, along sidewalls to direct water out into the field, and at the very bottom or start of the roof to keep out bugs and birds. Not Helpful 2 Helpful 3. It may not be necessary, but it's best. A cleared roof deck allows any rotted wood to be found and replaced and is the best time to consider adding insulation that will pay you back in the long run.
A new roof installed from scratch with all of the latest and greatest materials and methods will last the longest. Not Helpful 3 Helpful 4. Not at all, as the tiles are fired or dried and should not warp. Not Helpful 4 Helpful 1. The tiles have to be cut , 2" overhang from up stand on valleys. It is best to ping a check line, then use a still saw to cut. However, when choosing your next roof system material, weight is a consideration.
If you roof structure cannot handle the weight of clay or concrete, there are lighter weight tile alternatives. Tile roof installation requires an experienced roofing contractor. Tile roofing projects require indepth knowledge of tile handling and installation practices that are only learned through years of experience. And complex tile roof systems require careful craftsmanship using techniques far different from more common roofing practices.
Look for a tile roofing contractor with the following qualifications:. An experienced roofing contractor can help you avoid leaks and major problems and provide a tile roofing systems that lasts for decades. View more resources related to tile roofing systems. Thank you! We just ask that you provide a link back to this post as a thank you.
With offices nationwide, we are here to serve you! Roof Tiles. The Complete Guide. This guide is for you. Table of Contents. Clay Roof Tiles. Concrete Roof Tiles. Slate Roof Tiles. Metal Roof Tiles. Composite Roof Tiles. Solar Roof Tiles. Spanish Roof Tiles. Mission Roof Tiles. Flat Shingle Roof Tiles. Interlocking Roof Tiles. Shake Roof Tiles. Scalloped Roof Tiles. French Roof Tiles.
What is Tile Roofing? Roof Tile Manufacturers. How to Select a Tile Roof Contractor. Tile Roof Installation Video. Tile Roofing Pictures. Tile Roofing Project Videos. Tile Roofing Resources. Roof Tile Material Types. And when installed properly — some tile roofs can last years or longer. So what is a tile roof? Tile roofing is a very specialized field of roof installation… And requires a contractor that is experienced in working with and installing roof tiles of various materials and shapes.
Clay Roof Tiles Clay roof tiles are one of the original types of roofing materials manufactured centuries ago. Clay offers excellent moldability, color options, and color retention. Check out this beautiful green interlocking tile roof. Concrete Roof Tiles Concrete tiles are a popular tile option as well. They offer excellent resistance to wind or roof hail damage. Slate Roof Tiles Traditional, natural slate roof tiles are manufactured from rock.
Slate tile roofs are popular due to their natural appearance, durability, and longevity. Metal Roof Tiles With the popularity of metal roofing systems , metal offers another alternative for tile materials of construction. Metal roof tiles offer a nearly unlimited variety of shape and color options. Below is an example of stone-coated steel roof tiles installed on a commercial building.
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