Do not build with low density xps foams anything really important. It works fine for say a livewell or cooler, but a big mistake for hulls. The shear strength is simply too poor. The hull can't take any punishment like bumping bottom or a dock. It will delaminate. For something like a livewell, a bit of delamination is not the end of the world and another layer of glass can be added if it delams creating a functionally solid layup in repairs.
Another way to leverage foam is with plywood. A light plywood sheathing with foam glues makes the stuff pretty strong; the shear issue is mitigated because of the strength of the 'skin' of plywood. There are factual documentations about shear ratings for various cores here.
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Fortunately, we have a couple of products you can use to still make it work. So, no matter what kind of foam you use, we have a way to make your fiberglass mold or fiberglass -based product. If you plan to drag the boat a lot on beaches, the Xynole would be one of the best choices. Two layers of six ounce fiberglass , especially if both layers are saturated at once, isn't a lot heavier than a single layer and will still add a fair amount of abrasion resistance compared to painted plywood.
Urethane foam is a better choice if you want to remove the buck after laminating. It is the easiest to shape, and is lighter and cheaper. That is what we use for all of our one offs. To attach the sheets together I have used gorilla glue, or one of the other polyurethane glues that foam slightly. How many layers of fiberglass do you need for a car? A typical exterior lay-up consists of two layers of 6 ounce fiberglass cloth and polyester laminating resin, applied one lay-up at a time.
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